Longe estamos do século XI, tempo e lugar de origem da tão já portuguesa capucha. Introduzida pelos árabes (influência riquíssima muito pouco mencionada e explorada pelos portugueses), a capucha, para além de fazer parte da nossa história, permanece em tempo real no dia a dia de muitos portugueses.
A passagem dos séculos têm ditado o valor da capucha, objecto simples, despojado mas completo e multifacetado que tanto pode ser usado como agasalho no frio serrano do norte de Portugal, manta de cama ou arma de protecção (era usada pelas pastoras para afastar os lobos).
Nos últimos anos, temos assistido a uma reinvenção e valorização de algumas peças tradicionais portuguesas (será que as pessoas recomeçam a valorizar objectos que duram “uma vida”?). O investigar das nossas raízes tem, por um lado, aberto portas a novas oportunidades e modelos de negócio e, por outro, permitido a sustentabilidade económica de muitos artesãos do nosso país (desta forma, temos vindo a perpetuar a riqueza da nossa história trazendo “sangue novo” para ofícios quase perdidos ou esquecidos).
A capucha é exemplo disso e alguém percebeu que, nos dias de hoje, ainda é um objecto muito útil. O corte simples da capucha transformou-se num corte mais ousado graças ao trabalho de investigação de duas designers portuguesas, a Raquel Pais e a Maria Ruivo e da colaboração com a designer Helena Cardoso. Se no antigamente a capucha era já por si só multifacetada, apesar de simples e direita (suportada apenas pelo capuz preso na cabeça dos pastores), a sua reinvenção tem-lhe aumentado o valor. E assim nasceu a À Capucha.
As capuchas são feitas de Burel, tecido 100% em lã prensada cuja textura “fechada” lhes confere propriedades ideais para temperaturas de extremo frio e chuva (é impermeável). A À Capucha veio trazer mais trabalho às mãos das artesãs de Arões em Vale de Cambra (trabalham há 20 anos o Burel). As artesãs agradecem pois não querem sair da sua aldeia. Parcerias desta natureza podem ser parte da solução para o combate à desertificação nas zonas mais afastadas do nosso país.
Cada modelo da À Capucha tem apenas 60 unidades e alguns estão quase esgotados. Despache-se e faça parte desta história.
(Texto: Raquel Félix/ Portugalize.Me)
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