Aqui há tempos comprei um livro que me chamou imediatamente a atenção: na capa, um detalhe de um bordado de Castelo Branco e o título, em letras grandes, “Enciclopédia da Agulha”.
Folheei-o e não resisti a comprá-lo. Num só livro estão elencados pontos de bordado, algumas técnicas básicas de costura, crochet, tricot, rendas de várias proveniências e até frioleiras. Frioleiras!
Já em casa, sentada no sofá, peguei no livro e li-o de fio a pavio; detive-me com mais atenção numas instruções, e com menos, noutras. Mas o que mais gostei, mesmo, foi do início. O texto inicial é um sinal dos tempos – e da mudança deles.
Publicada originalmente em 1960 (segundo sei, em forma de fascículos), o prólogo desta enciclopédia fala de coisas que hoje nos parecem tão distantes quanto a Lua. Fala-nos da mulher a fazer lavores como o arquétipo da beleza feminina; da utilidade desses conhecimentos como forma de ajudar o marido a compor o orçamento familiar; lembra-nos de um tempo em que o homem era o pai providente e a mulher era a mãe que faz de uma casa, um lar.
Não admira que a minha geração tenha querido romper com esta pesada tradição, desinteressando-se de toda e qualquer coisa que tivesse que ver com uma distribuição vincada e antiquada dos papéis dos géneros.
Alegra-me, portanto, o regresso às tradições a que temos vindo a assistir de uma forma cada vez mais interessante. A crise, que tem tão pouco de bom, poderá ter precipitado um pouco este redescobrimento das técnicas tradicionais pela minha geração e seguintes.
Parece-me muito interessante este entusiasmo, que reconheço não só em mim como também à minha volta; e ainda mais interessante é observar que a questão do género está muito menos vincada. Cada vez mais se vêem homens a bordar e a tricotar, entre tantas outras actividades anteriormente ditas “femininas”. O mesmo acontece com as mulheres no âmbito das actividades “masculinas”.
É interessante olhar para trás e ver quanto mudaram o nosso país, o mundo e os nossos preconceitos, e imaginar o quanto podem ainda mudar no futuro. Voltar a materiais e técnicas tradicionais parece-me uma conquista maravilhosa da nossa geração, sobretudo porque podemos fazê-la. Já não precisamos de recusar liminarmente os conhecimentos básicos de costura porque a agulha, hoje, já não é um instrumento de opressão feminina. Diria mais: o tricot, crochet, bordado e tantos outros lavores são hoje formas de expressão; as linhas equivalem a tintas; as agulhas, a pincel.
O fim do século XX apontava para uma loucura de máquinas, computadores, digitalização e o mundo completamente feito de zeros e uns. Quando comecei a faculdade, vivemos a transição dos desenhos feitos à mão para a mediação do computador. De repente, aquela ferramenta poupava-nos de um rol infinito de dores de cabeça. Qualquer desenho saía imaculadamente perfeito da impressora, graças a todos os “undo” e “zoom in” que a ferramenta nos permitia. No meio do nosso entusiasmo histérico, esquecemo-nos de que o computador não era mais que um lápis sofisticado; a génese da ideia teria sempre de estar na nossa cabeça, nunca na máquina. Houve uns tempos em que os computadores ditaram a moda, e não me esqueço de quantos trabalhos cheios de tecnologia mas vazios de conteúdo vi nas aulas da faculdade.
Mas houve um momento em que a tendência mudou: actualmente, observamos o regresso às tradições, à marca do manual como forma de imprimir um carácter único a cada coisa. Depois do anonimato da linguagem dos computadores, cada vez se procura mais o que é único, genuíno, próprio de cada um. E os gadgets, ao contrário do que aconteceu com os computadores no fim do século XX, em vez de serem um fim, transformaram-se num meio, meio esse que permite documentar e veicular esta mudança.
E é também através destes gadgets documentadores que hoje sigo artistas – homens e mulheres – que escolhem as agulhas como pincéis e deixam a sua marca no mundo.
Este é um período muito excitante, em que tudo muda muito depressa. Reler hoje a Enciclopédia da Agulha, tão completa e tão antiquada, é uma forma de avaliarmos como a nossa relação com a tradição mudou tanto – e ainda bem.
(Texto e imagem: Ana Isabel Ramos)
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