Aqui há tempos comprei um livro que me chamou imediatamente a atenção: na capa, um detalhe de um bordado de Castelo Branco e o título, em letras grandes, “Enciclopédia da Agulha”.
Folheei-o e não resisti a comprá-lo. Num só livro estão elencados pontos de bordado, algumas técnicas básicas de costura, crochet, tricot, rendas de várias proveniências e até frioleiras. Frioleiras!
Já em casa, sentada no sofá, peguei no livro e li-o de fio a pavio; detive-me com mais atenção numas instruções, e com menos, noutras. Mas o que mais gostei, mesmo, foi do início. O texto inicial é um sinal dos tempos – e da mudança deles.
Publicada originalmente em 1960 (segundo sei, em forma de fascículos), o prólogo desta enciclopédia fala de coisas que hoje nos parecem tão distantes quanto a Lua. Fala-nos da mulher a fazer lavores como o arquétipo da beleza feminina; da utilidade desses conhecimentos como forma de ajudar o marido a compor o orçamento familiar; lembra-nos de um tempo em que o homem era o pai providente e a mulher era a mãe que faz de uma casa, um lar.
Não admira que a minha geração tenha querido romper com esta pesada tradição, desinteressando-se de toda e qualquer coisa que tivesse que ver com uma distribuição vincada e antiquada dos papéis dos géneros.
Alegra-me, portanto, o regresso às tradições a que temos vindo a assistir de uma forma cada vez mais interessante. A crise, que tem tão pouco de bom, poderá ter precipitado um pouco este redescobrimento das técnicas tradicionais pela minha geração e seguintes.
Parece-me muito interessante este entusiasmo, que reconheço não só em mim como também à minha volta; e ainda mais interessante é observar que a questão do género está muito menos vincada. Cada vez mais se vêem homens a bordar e a tricotar, entre tantas outras actividades anteriormente ditas “femininas”. O mesmo acontece com as mulheres no âmbito das actividades “masculinas”.
É interessante olhar para trás e ver quanto mudaram o nosso país, o mundo e os nossos preconceitos, e imaginar o quanto podem ainda mudar no futuro. Voltar a materiais e técnicas tradicionais parece-me uma conquista maravilhosa da nossa geração, sobretudo porque podemos fazê-la. Já não precisamos de recusar liminarmente os conhecimentos básicos de costura porque a agulha, hoje, já não é um instrumento de opressão feminina. Diria mais: o tricot, crochet, bordado e tantos outros lavores são hoje formas de expressão; as linhas equivalem a tintas; as agulhas, a pincel.
O fim do século XX apontava para uma loucura de máquinas, computadores, digitalização e o mundo completamente feito de zeros e uns. Quando comecei a faculdade, vivemos a transição dos desenhos feitos à mão para a mediação do computador. De repente, aquela ferramenta poupava-nos de um rol infinito de dores de cabeça. Qualquer desenho saía imaculadamente perfeito da impressora, graças a todos os “undo” e “zoom in” que a ferramenta nos permitia. No meio do nosso entusiasmo histérico, esquecemo-nos de que o computador não era mais que um lápis sofisticado; a génese da ideia teria sempre de estar na nossa cabeça, nunca na máquina. Houve uns tempos em que os computadores ditaram a moda, e não me esqueço de quantos trabalhos cheios de tecnologia mas vazios de conteúdo vi nas aulas da faculdade.
Mas houve um momento em que a tendência mudou: actualmente, observamos o regresso às tradições, à marca do manual como forma de imprimir um carácter único a cada coisa. Depois do anonimato da linguagem dos computadores, cada vez se procura mais o que é único, genuíno, próprio de cada um. E os gadgets, ao contrário do que aconteceu com os computadores no fim do século XX, em vez de serem um fim, transformaram-se num meio, meio esse que permite documentar e veicular esta mudança.
E é também através destes gadgets documentadores que hoje sigo artistas – homens e mulheres – que escolhem as agulhas como pincéis e deixam a sua marca no mundo.
Este é um período muito excitante, em que tudo muda muito depressa. Reler hoje a Enciclopédia da Agulha, tão completa e tão antiquada, é uma forma de avaliarmos como a nossa relação com a tradição mudou tanto – e ainda bem.
(Texto e imagem: Ana Isabel Ramos)
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「当時はおおらかな時代でしたね。朝一番の開店時は有利な機種が何個かあって、月40万円くらい稼げていたと思います。サラリーマンは会社を休んで行けないですけど、中学生は夏休みもあるし、(通常時も)7000円~1万4000円を取ってから学校に行った」。高校・大学では同級生を“打ち子”にして、20歳で2000万円を貯めたという。 長くモニターに向かっても疲れない体、目まぐるしく変化する場況に対応する反応速度は「ゲーマーだったことが生きている」という。そして、本書の最後ではこう締めくくっている。「資本主義は人類史上最高のゲームかもしれない」と。 そして、『一人の力で日経平均を動かせる男の投資哲学』のcis 「今となっては投資は守備寄りですが、麻雀やポーカーではリスクに対してニュートラル。期待値の最大化をつねに模索しています。不完全情報ゲームで確率に身をゆだねたものをやりすぎていたので、ブレに対して精神的に鈍感になっているところがあるかなと。勝っても勝っても高揚しない、負けても負けても高揚(落胆)しない。それは投資の世界では強いのかもしれないです」 ちなみにcisさんはPCやスマホのゲームなども好き。相場に必要な「いろんなことを瞬時に判断できる力」と「目を疲れさせずに画面を見る力」がきたえられたそうです。ちょっと笑ってしまいましたが、相場はすばやい処理と応答が求められるスポーツのようなものだと考えるととても大事なフィジカル要素なのかもしれないと感じました。
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