Salvar a lã portuguesa, salvar as nossas tradições

29 Outubro, 2014 — 53 Comments

Salvar a Lã Portuguesa

O meu primeiro contacto com a lã deve ter sido ancestral, muito primordial, era eu bebé. Deve ter sido no momento em que a minha mãe me vestiu pela primeira vez um casaco tricotado por ela ou por uma das minhas avós. Há 36 anos era assim. Muito do que se vestia era feito pelos da casa e, sendo a minha mãe uma exímia costureira, a confecção era impecável, feita com amor, artística.

O segundo contacto real que tive com a lã está preso a momentos muito especiais. Nessa altura, era eu uma miúda pequena, a lã era comprada às meadas (era mais barata e rendia mais). Para que a lã pudesse ser tricotada de forma mais fácil, havia a necessidade de a transformar num novelo. Lá vinha a minha mãe: “Qual das duas é que quer hoje dobar a lã?” – perguntava ela, a mim e à minha irmã. Entre as duas decidíamos, porque umas vezes apetecia, outras vezes não. E lá ía eu, fechava as mãos, erguia os braços e a minha mãe enfiava uma ponta da meada no punho direito, outra no punho esquerdo e começava a dança. Braços e punhos baloiçavam à medida que a minha mãe dava forma e fazia crescer o novelo da lã. Um ritual que guardo na memória, a dança, o toque da lã, o cheiro e o barulho dos fios a deslizarem com o movimento.

Durante uns anos foi assim, até que voltei a ter uma espécie de terceiro contacto com a lã, quando os meus pais decidiram abrir uma loja de lãs. Isso mesmo, uma loja de lãs! A marca não era portuguesa e não tenho a noção da origem do fabrico das lãs (talvez houvesse uma nacional lá pelo meio). Chamava-se Pingouin Esmeralda. Uma marca clássica, para quem a conheceu, porque já não existe. O negócio das lãs deixou-se vencer pelas Zaras dessa vida. O fazer deu lugar ao já feito e o contacto com os processos tornou-se escasso, remoto, esquecido.

Chegados aqui, deparamos-nos com a necessidade de dizer: “Salva a Lã Portuguesa! Ela está adoentada, esquecida, é subaproveitada, negligenciada até!” Como é que deixámos chegar a lã a este ponto? Portugal tem mais de uma dezena de raças autóctones de ovinos e, apesar de ser um dos mais antigos criadores de ovelhas da Europa, a lã é na maioria das vezes considerada desperdício, por não haver um mercado que compre a lã da tosquia, acabando por ser queimada.

Parte da identidade cultural no nosso país está associada ao uso da lã. As nossas avós preparavam-na, fiavam-na. Não é uma realidade tão distante para que a possamos esquecer assim, de uma só vez. 

Salvar a Lã Portuguesa 3

Chegados aqui podemos novamente gritar: “Salva a Lã Portuguesa“!

Há quem o esteja a fazer, há quem esteja a tentar salvar a nossa lã, reanimando-a de forma a que esta possa gozar da vida que tinha há uns anos.

O Filipe, a Mafalda, a Egle e Sara olham para a lã como um produto natural único e sustentável. Eles têm novos horizontes para a lã: O nosso desejo de usar um produto natural e nacional, levou-nos a desenvolver um projecto que tem como objectivo aproveitar a lã portuguesa e produzir um fio sustentável. Os produtos locais são a base da criação de um comércio justo. Infelizmente a lã natural portuguesa já há algumas décadas tem vindo a desaparecer do mercado de fios e vestuário. Nos últimos anos temos assistido a um maior interesse no processo tradicional chegando aos espaços públicos, onde os jovens retomam os conhecimentos ancestrais para produzirem peças actuais.

Vamos todos salvar a lã portuguesa para que possamos todos, uma dia, dançar com ela de punhos fechados, à medida que transformamos uma meada em novelo.

(Texto: Raquel Félix – Portugalize.Me/ Imagens e vídeo: Salva a Lã Portuguesa)

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