Viva o Cobertor de Papa

4 Novembro, 2017 — 88 Comments

A 4 de dezembro de 2013, escrevia no Portugalize.Me sobre os Cobertores de Papa. História baseada numa memória física, intensificada por toda a textura, cheiro e peso que um cobertor de lã de churra tem (é um cobertor verdadeiramente físico… como compreendo o uso dado pelos pastores serranos, não só para os proteger do frio e da chuva mas também, para os defender dos lobos).

Passados quase 4 anos, regresso aos Cobertores indo directamente à origem, largando a memória e procurando uma das terras que os viram nascer, Maçaínhas de Baixo ou simplesmente, Maçaínhas. Para entrar na pequena aldeia serrana contorna-se a cidade dos 3 F’s (a Fria, Farta e Formosa cidade da Guarda) e, do lado de lá, a parca estrada que nos leva até ao fim de um mundo.

Procuramos a Escola de Artes e Ofícios de Maçaínhas, inaugurada em 2008 com o intuito de formar potenciais artesãos na arte da fabricação dos Cobertores de Papa (mas à moda antiga, em teares tradicionais com todas as técnicas de fabrico ancestrais) e de garantir que o conhecimento desta arte não se perdia com os mais velhos. Em 2011, a produção de Cobertores de papa recomeçava em Maçaínhas. No entretanto, os Cobertores de Papa ganharam vida, novo fôlego. Fizeram-se workshops, muitas visitas de estudo, suscitou o interesse de muitos designers para diferentes fins. Vestiu a Confraria do Borrego, teve direito a festa em 2015 (a festa do Cobertor de Papa) e até andaram pelas passarelas do Portugal Fashion em 2016 com a assinatura da designer de moda Alexandra Moura.

O reboliço do Cobertor de Papa contrasta com a calma encontrada em Maçaínhas. Estacionamos o carro e perguntamos a um senhor da terra pela Escola: “É ali para baixo, siga sempre por ali”. Seguimos num silêncio apenas quebrado pelo soar dos sinos da pequena Igreja (som gravado pois já não há quem toque aos sinos por ali). Encontramos a Escola fechada e com um aviso (ligar para número xpto ou ir ao Centro Social e Paroquial para poder visitar a Escola). E lá fomos.

A Escola faz parte deste Centro Social (um Centro de Dia que acolhe os mais velhos e as mais solitárias almas de Maçaínhas). Serve-se o pequeno-almoço, o almoço, proporciona-se calor com a ajuda da lareira e de alguma companhia. Ali, somos recebidas pela Carina Cardoso, a cara e a força do projecto da Escola que trava nova luta por ela. A Escola está temporariamente parada por falta de verbas e de artesãos. Enquanto negócio, é sustentável, o facto desta ser uma valência da IPSS faz com que todo o dinheiro seja absorvido pelo Centro de Dia que dá apoio aos idosos da terra (os Cobertores a serem verdadeiros lugares de conforto e de aconchego). Carina não baixa os braços e diz ter notícias para breve. Eu acredito nela. Eu quero acreditar nela. Muito mesmo.

A Escola é pequena. No piso térreo encontramos o enorme tear (único operacional) que ocupa quase a divisão inteira. Dali saem todas os Cobertores (a largura é sempre limitada a 1,7m e o comprimento… não tem fim, é o que se desejar). Carina explica o processo de fabricação como ninguém, como sua principal patrona e impulsionadora. Conhece cada momento, cada peça do tear, cada acção. Ainda no piso térreo, a sala onde se guarda todo o stock. Apesar da produção estar parada, ainda restam uns quantos Cobertores. A variedade é grande (a manta barrenta ou de pastor com listas castanhas e brancas; a manta lobeira ou espanhola com listas brancas, castanhas, verdes, vermelhas e amarelas; o cobertor branco; o cobertor branco com três listas nas pontas castanhas ou verdes; o cobertor bordado com fundo branco com riscas azuis, vermelhas e verdes – é bordado à mão com losangos azuis num dos lados do cobertor e o cobertor de cores várias).

Subimos ao primeiro andar e encontramos a sala onde se transformam os Cobertores em outras coisas mais (almofadas, pochetes, coletes, saias, sacos… “aqui aproveitamos tudo” diz Carina). Apesar da sala estar vazia de gente, de artesãos, o ar carrega o cheiro das mãos, do trabalho, de todo o potencial que Carina não quer perder e no qual acredita (a forma como fala de tudo é prova de tudo isto e, assim sendo, tem tudo para dar certo).

Comprámos duas almofadas que agora descansam em duas cadeiras da casa de Pinhel… Maçaínhas aqui tão perto e só passados anos é que visitamos estas relíquias… imperdoável não ir ver, não ir conhecer, não compreender o que se estava a passar mesmo aqui ao lado.

O cobertor de papa não morreu. Que viva por muitos e muitos anos. Viva o Cobertor de Papa.

Texto e fotografias: Raquel Félix – Portugalize.Me

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