Ao Alentejo chega-se de mansinho, devagar, com calma. A paisagem muda, o cheiro, a cor, as pessoas, o tempo. É preciso chegar sem pressa, com a tranquilidade de alguém que se prepara para viajar até à lua (sem gravidade).
São Lourenço de Mamporcão. Sim, é nome de terra. É nome de aldeia pacata, branca, clara, luminosa e viva. Chega-se e começam os “bons dias“, as “boas tardes“, os “obrigados” e os “haja saúde“. Conhecidos e desconhecidos são tratados por igual. São pessoas que se cruzam e de bom grado se cumprimentam. São valores, educação, uma espontaneidade verdadeira que contagia qualquer um.
Vive-se e trabalha-se em comunidade. Lavadeiras à moda antiga resistem às máquinas de lavar roupa: “Aqui não gasto água. É de graça!“. Lavam-se lençóis, cuecas, meias, calças, trinchas de uma casa que acabou de ser caiada… “De onde vem a água?“… “Diga?! Sou meia surda… já nã oiço bem.“… “A água, de onde vem?“… “Olhe, vem dali, daquele buraco.“… e o ritual continua, esfrega, bate, esfrega, passa por água, põe o sabão, bate, esfrega, passa por água…
“Boa tarde e boa continuação“…
À volta da aldeia montes, muitos montes. Uns habitados com a terra trabalhada, outros vazios, abandonados, secos, esquecidos relembrando que a desertificação não é mera conversa de saudosistas, mas uma realidade que a terra mostra e conta.
Vi uma única criança por ali. E vi muitos velhos sentados à soleira da porta, na lida, a passar, a lavar a roupa, a tomar café. A terra é viva e está viva (só não se sabe por quanto tempo).
É hora de comer. Hora sagrada. Na aldeia existe o Zézadas que para além de restaurante é mercearia (sempre dá para safar algum bem esquecido na compra da semana numa grande superfície dessa vida – Estremoz está cheia delas). Outra alternativa é a carrinha mercearia que atravessa a aldeia todas as manhãs, a apitar alto e com bom som! Ou o carro do pão fresco munido de uma buzina especial. De regresso ao Zézadas… um cozido de grão… um caldo de grão de bico com batatas, abóbora, feijão verde onde se misturam carnes diversas e variados enchidos da região. Que coisa divina! Que sabor intenso. Tudo tem um sabor específico, distinto!
Lá perto, em Estremoz, a Adega do Isaías. Mesas grandes corridas, casa simples e com direito a história da terra. “Sabe o que é que um alentejano precisa para viver? De uma palhinha, de um canivete e de um capote. Três amigos alentejanos decidiram ir para a cidade e nã tinham muito dinhero. Com estes três objectos lá se safaram. Quando tinham sede pediam uma cerveja e os três bebiam dela com a palhinha, dividiam a comida com a ajuda do canivete e aqueciam-se com o capote nas noites frias. Tá a perceberi!”
Um verdadeiro manual de sobrevivência!
Fazer a digestão à sombra de um freixo. O sol vai e vem por entre as folhas. Abro e fecho os olhos várias vezes. Deixo-me dormir. Acordo com o barulho do vento, uma aragem forte, quente que passa. Dormito e dormito. Caiem folhas sobre mim. Oiço os pássaros, as moscas (o silêncio é tanto que é fácil ouvir a natureza). Oiço ao longe as pessoas que trabalham no campo. Um chama o cão, outra chama a vizinha. Volto a adormecer.
Acordo. É hora de partir. Seguir para a confusão, para o barulho, o frenesim, para a falta de tempo (ali, um hora parece um dia e um dia uma semana). Deixo o silêncio para trás, o som das ovelhas que atravessam o pasto pela manhã, as lavadeiras, o Zézadas e os manuais de sobrevivência.
Deixo o freixo, deixo o Alentejo.
Texto e imagens: ©Raquel Félix – Portugalize.Me
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